|
| Managed to get some things done over the last two nights.
- Extended the brake switch leads to the new pneumatic switch.
- Remove the oil pressure warning switch and installed the VDO adapter from my former M10 setup. I'll have to prime the air of the bottom of the loop I think.
- Attached the booster bracket to the firewall. Even though I'm not running a booster, the modified bracket is still home to the power distribution block and throttle linkage machinery.
- Test fit the intake manifold, looks like it clears everything! And a clear shot to the starter and all of the power wiring. Woohoo!
- Modified the TPS mounting plate (read: banged with a hammer) so that it would clear the inner manifold runners.
- Test fit the injector wiring harness and assembly, as well as the TPS and IAT sensor runs - looks good.
Tonight (presumably):
- Re-run battery and ground cables through firewall, reconnect power block, starter.
- Clean up the alternator bracket and test mount it.
- Test mount the intake pipes and filter, mark for modification.
- Maybe fiddle with the throttle linkage a bit - it pulls the wrong way so will probably have to fab my own levers.
A second set of MSDS headers is on it's way, so I'll be able to start work on the exhaust soon.
| | |
| Here it is June already. Wow. Did we have a May?
May was a slow month for project work, but I do have some things to report.
- Fabbed vertical yolk to serve as CSB support. It's held in place by three bolts, is very sturdy, and can be removed in a few minutes if needed. Driveline adjustments are easy.
- Rear shift linkage support is more or less done. I don't really like the way it turned out as there is a little slack in the movement, but I should be able to work that out with some spacers before I put the driveshaft in permanently.
- I found an exhaust on ebay, bought it, FedEx lost it and I'm now in the claims process. Found another one, an MSDS with custom downpipe for 2002, that should be shipped out in a week or so.
- Cut a section of the spare well out to accommodate the 4" x 9" magnaflow muffler. Formed a 90deg section to fill in the cutout, need to remove the tank and weld it in. Also need to remember to bore holes in the rear boxed sections for the bumper mounts...
- Started re-running the wiring to the headlight, etc. With the new nose section framing I'll need to extend some of the wiring to the windshield washer bottle, etc.
- Have in installed most of the front brake lines and fittings as of last night. Still need to get the backing plates, calipers and flexible lines on.
| | |
| If you saw the car right now the very idea of it moving under it's own power would seem laughable. No suspension, no wheels, no interior, no steering column. You get the idea.
This weekend I should be able to paint the engine compartment. That's my goal anyway. Once that's done and a few days have passed for things to cure up, the front subframe goes back on and engine will go back in. I can wait to be at that point. It has taken a really long time to get to this point and I'm really eager to get things back together.
With the engine back in, I can work on a better transmission support bracket and a completely new CSB bracket. I've flipped the rear subframe mount, which is going to throw the CSB out of alignment even more than it already is. This will be a difficult side project, but it should result in a CSB support that is completely adjustable.
| | |
| Coilovers are now done. Thanks to Mike O'hara I was able to get the coilover sleeves turned down to fit the strut tubes and mate properly with the glan nuts. Following that, it turns out that 1.5" OD 1/4" wall aluminum pipe is fairly common, so I picked up a foot and made some strut tube spacers to get the inserts to the correct height. A little trimming is all it took to get everything mated snugly.
The result is pretty:
Brake lines... what a pain. So far I've dropped over $50 on tubing and can't use any of it. The wall thickness it too high, so it just squeezes out of the flaring tool before the walls give. I've turned to cheaper premade lines that use thinner walled (but standard) tubing. This is working fairly well.
Once the lines are fitted, it all comes apart so paint can go down in the engine bay.
Just a few other checklist items prior to paint:
- Drill holes for 3rd engine brace- Undercoat tunnel and surrounding areas
- Drill holes for 02 sensor mount
- Weld on tabs for oil cooler and radiator fan | | |
|
